Ithaka Bound

Leto was the daughter of the Titans Phoebe and Coeus. One day,  through no fault of her own, she caught the eye of the randiest of all randy gods and the most dangerous lover to mortal maidens — Zeus.  When Zeus discovered Leto was pregnant, the supreme ruler of all the Olympian gods was so afraid of his wife Hera, he abandoned Leto and hurried home, pretending nothing had happened. I guess he figured his thunderbolt was no match for his wife’s wrath. Hera’s  reputation for exacting revenge on her rivals was so fearsome, there wasn’t a single country or island in the ancient world that would accept Leto on its shores.

Eventually Leto found herself washed up on a desolate bit of land in the middle of the Cyclades. The island  was without foundation, tossed this way and that by the winds and the sea, but when Leto asked for refuge, it welcomed her gladly. When Leto stepped upon the barren rock, four pillars rose from the bottom of the sea and firmly anchored it forever. This island is called Delos, and, no kidding, you can get there from Mykonos.

Leto gave birth to the Olympian twins, Artemis and Apollo, on Delos. Apollo has been called “the most Greek” of all Greek gods; the god of light, in whom there is no darkness at all (except when there is); and the god of truth. No false word ever falls from his lips. Artemis was the Lady of Wild Things, huntsman-in-chief to the gods, and protectress of dewy youth. One can only hope that Leto felt herself redeemed by her remarkably successful and inspiring children, and by the welcoming arms of Delos.

Unfortunately, all my photos of Delos were lost in my move from Belgium to DC, so I’ve used photos from Mykonos for this post.

Today the sacred island of Delos is prized as one of Greece’s major archeological sites and considered to be the most illuminated spot in Greece. The island is abandoned, so overnight stays are not permitted, but boats for Delos leave six times daily from Mykonos Hora. With nary a tree for shade, make sure to follow the advice in this post to ensure an enjoyable visit. It’s also a good idea to pick up a guidebook to aid you through the ancient site and to familiarize yourself with it’s fascinating history.

My last visit to Delos was in 2003. I went up the highest summit on the island, Mt. Kythnos, and waited for my sister, who was still making her way up from the Sacred Harbor, to join me. I stood there enjoying the silence and the cooling salt spray of the north wind, looking out over the shrines and sanctuaries to foreign gods — Samothracian, Syrian, Egyptian — and following the Terrace of the Lions to the Sacred Lake, birthplace of the Olympian twins. In that moment,  I felt myself enfolded in beauty and was certain that anything that might be wrong in the world would certainly be made right again.

I suppose that’s how everyone feels on Delos.

© 2011, Ithaka Bound. All rights reserved.

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