I thought I should warn you about driving in Greece.
Those of you who watched the video I posted from Sifnos a few months back will remember my initial nervousness over having to drive a manual shift after a six year hiatus, and how I was given a baptism-by-fire on the hairpin turns of Greek roads. As with all fears subject to repetition, I eventually stopped white-knuckling it and found myself navigating the highest passes in Greece and parking on steep inclines with another vehicle within tickling distance behind me. What was once a harrowing experience became the norm.
One thing however still makes driving in Greece a challenge, particularly for those with anger management issues: other drivers. And I don’t mean just Greeks, the spectrum of nationalities is represented.
Greece has an inordinate number of drivers who believe they are blessed with a third eye. This third eye allows them to see around blind turns on mountain passes, and know–just know–that there isn’t another car in the opposite lane (the lane they just crossed into because they were going too fast); or a child who just happened to pick this moment to cross the street; or a goat who wandered off the path; or an 80 year-old widow who doesn’t realize or even care if she’s walking in the middle of the road.
I’ve encountered all of the above while driving in Greece, but third eye folks aren’t troubled with such concerns. They’ve got that third eye ‘n all.
I think Greeks are guilty of third eye driving because for most of the year the roads are clear; they can live large and take up as much road as they want, driving as fast as their little cars will carry them. But third eye tourists, especially from countries with strict speeding laws, are like geldings finally released from their pen, like 16 year-olds with bad acne trying to impress the cheerleader by speeding past her in daddy’s Porsche.
Guess which one is more annoying.
The only thing worse than meeting a third eye driver on the road is being a passenger in one of their vehicles: quick stop-quick accelerate-quick stop-quick accelerate… Third eye drivers: no one is having fun but you.
There are some islands where you absolutely need wheels to get around and other islands that are well-served by public buses. On Santorini and Mykonos, buses are so packed in August, you’ll want your own motorized vehicle just to save your sanity. I recommend a moped if you know how to work one. Apparently Greece now has a law that only licensed moto drivers can rent mopeds, but I’m not sure how strictly this is enforced.
If you rent a car, prepare yourself psychologically for what lies ahead and just assume that you don’t have a third eye.
Happy driving.
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