RSS Feed
  1. Colossus of Rhodes

    September 15, 2010 by host

    Rhodes-Greece-Greek-island-Beach-Diving-Board

    I’ve fallen way behind in island updates. Enfin:

    I went to Rhodes against my will, grudgingly, only because I couldn’t avoid it, much as I tried.

    Rhodes is the major hub for ferry traffic through the Dodacanese island group, and I was forced to transit through the big island twice during my travels. I imagined Rhodes to be everything I was hoping to avoid in this trip around Greece: loud, crowded, devoted to package tourism, venal; and, although all these adjectives apply, Rhodes had something I hadn’t take into account while passing my harsh judgement: a wonderfully preserved medieval old town built by the Knights of St. John (Hospitaller).

    Rhodes-Greece-Greek-island-Archeological-Museum

    Two days were not nearly long enough.  If you’re a photographer, or lover of beautiful old walled towns, you’ll need at least 5 days.

    Rhodes-Greece-Greek-island-Castle-Wall

    The town is so well preserved, there is only the mildest hint of theme park in the air.  I became fascinated by all the huge round stones scattered around the town.  They’re most prevalent in the moat — which is dry now and provides a good walk — and appear to be old cannonballs that were just left to lie where they fell.  There’s something about a beautiful sphere arranged in triangular form that’s just so easy on the eye.

    Rhodes-Greece-Greek-island-Entrance-Gate-Wall

    Rhodes-Greece-Greek-island-Museum-Cannon-Balls

    Rhodes-Greece-Greek-island-Cannon-Balls-Wall-Moat

    I found a room in the Jewish Quarter of the old town for €30 a night, and  –  get this!  –  it was quiet, blissfully quiet at night. If you’re traveling as a couple, heed me and book one of the gorgeous boutique hotels in the old town.

    Rhodes-Greece-Greek-island-old-town-Jewish-Quarter

    Rhodes-Greece-Greek-island-old-town-towel

    Rhodes-Greece-Greek-island-old-town-Church-Ruins-Bicycles

    Rhodes-Greece-Greek-island-old-town-Clock-Tower

    Remember to bring appropriate foot wear! I lasted about 10 minutes in my flipflops. The streets of Rhodes are paved with stones that are anything but smooth:

    Rhodes-Greece-Greek-island-old-town-Streets-sandals-Flip-Flops

    There was once a Colossus in Rhodes — a gigantic 107 ft statue of Helios that straddled the entrance to the harbor of Mandraki and was one of the Seven Wonders of the ancient world.  He’s long gone now, but I vote for this stairway leading to nowhere, 100 meters off the shore of the Aegean, be designated the new Colossus of Rhodes.  It kept me entertained for hours:

    Rhodes-Greece-Greek-island-Beach

    © 2010 – 2011, Ithaka Bound. All rights reserved.

    Related posts:


  2. Traveler Bound for Ithaka…

    August 8, 2010 by host

    Wherein I show you some glamourous hats and offer advice on the necessities:

    There are two body parts that need special protection in Greece:  your head, and your feet. They can ruin a holiday faster than you can say, “I’ll have another tyropita, parakalo.”*  Take it from my twenty year-old self, who spent two days in bed recovering from heat stroke during a trip to Greece.

    As far as hats go, you have a lot of options.  At a minimum, bring or buy two of the following.  Menfolk, modify as you see fit:

    Bucket-Hat-Greece-Greek-Islands

    The bucket hat: it’s enough to shade the eyes and a little bit of the face, without obscuring vision or interfering with a camera when taking photographs. A lot of Greek grannies—very, very smart women—wear it in the water while swimming, for sun protection.  It’s my favorite hat because it’s comfortable, cool, and able to hold all my hair.

    Wide-brim-hat-Brigitte-Bardot-Greece-Greek-Islands-White-Blue

    The floppy hat: I call this my Brigitte Bardot hat because it makes me feel like I should be on a scooter in the South of France.

    I love the colors, the wide brim keeps my whole face and neck shaded, and it doesn’t interfere with photographs.  Let this hat fulfill its destiny by pairing it with big Chanel sunglasses and hopping on the back of someone’s scooter — it doesn’t really matter who’s.

    baseball-cap-hat-Greece-Greek-Islands-Sea-Wisconsin-Badgers

    The baseball cap: if you’re American you’ll probably want to bring one along… just because. I saw a surprising number of Russians wearing them as well. Is it a fad in Russia?

    Baseball caps get in the way of your camera (if you use the viewfinder), but they protect your face — though not your ears — when the sun is at the right angle. [Go, Badgers.]

    On to feet. Everyone needs at least these two pairs of shoes:

    Swim-Rock-Sand-Shoes-Greece-Greek-Islands

    The rock/hot sand/water shoe: Buy this for €7 as soon as you get to Greece.

    Most of the best beaches are at least pebbly, if not full-on rocky. If the beach is sandy, by noon the sand will be too hot to walk barefoot, and sometimes its too hot for flip-flops even: the sand slips in the crevices. They’ll also protect you if you step on a sea urchin — which are common in Greek waters.

    Keen-Sandals-Greece-Greek-Islands

    The tough/durable shoe: at a minimum, you’ll want something with a sole at least this thick for walking anywhere in Greece, even in Athens—the gods help you if you’re wearing flip flops around the Acropolis and it starts to rain.

    If you plan on doing any sort of mildly strenuous hiking, you’ll need a tougher shoe/boot. I went on a few hikes — planned and unplanned (some might call this “getting lost”, but I think the phrase carries a distinct hint of judgement) — and really could have used a pair of light boots, but I just couldn’t bear the thought of having my feet so hot. I wore my Keens in the water, but they were way too buoyant and made it impossible to swim because my feet kept floating higher than my head.

    Another necessity is sunscreen, and I’ve found this one to be the best:

    sunscreen-Greece-Greek-Islands

    It takes a good 15 minutes to rub this stuff on to your skin, but it’s well worth the effort if you have super-pale skin of the Southern Slav variety like I do. The good news is you’ll only have to rub it in once per day, even if you spend the entire day in the water. In fact, you’ll have to use a loofah in the shower to get it all off.

    I’ve tried just about every kind of sunscreen out there. Spray-on sunscreens are a joke, even if they claim to be waterproof. Sunscreens without Zinc or Titanium Dioxide are also a joke.  Some sunscreens with Zinc or Titanium Dioxide are a joke. I even tried the “sensitive skin” version of this same sunscreen, SPF 50, and I still burned. After much trial and sunburn, I’ve come to the conclusion that, in order to truly protect oneself from the sun, sunscreen must be difficult to rub into the skin. Don’t believe the marketing hype, get this: Carroten SPF 50 for kids.

    One more thing:  bug/mosquito spray. The mosquitos of Greece are surprisingly zealous and persistent little bloodsuckers.  Bring along some bug spray if you don’t want to be chasing them around your room at 2:00 in the morning.

    * I’ll have another cheese pie, please.

    © 2010 – 2012, Ithaka Bound. All rights reserved.

    Related posts:


  3. Dangerous Beauty

    July 16, 2010 by host

    Symi-Greece-Greek-Islands-Colorful-Harbor

    “I cannot leave you alone on the beach, Miss. I cannot.”

    A stone’s throw from the coast of Asia Minor, I’m on the island of Symi trying to convince a woman with a boat to leave me on the island’s most beautiful beach.

    Concerned over what could happen to me, she’ll only drop me off if there are other people on the beach as well.  So far, everyone else is going to the tourist-developed beaches and, with just 15 minutes before the boat leaves, time is running out for me.

    Most tourists to Symi are Italian, which I love, however, most italian visitors to Greece don’t venture far from a sunbed or a restaurant with grilled calamari — all the better to see and be seen.

    The beach at Agios Georgios is wild, remote, and gorgeous. A vertical cliff dive into the Aegean and a pebble beach at the bottom.

    I search my mind for a convincing argument.

    The American in me wonders if it’s a question of compensation.  If I offered her more money for the extra fuel that would be expended by dropping me off, would she accept it?

    Symi-Greece-Greek-Islands-Harbor-Sea

    But I risk offending her with this offer.  She’s already stated her concern for my welfare as the reason she can’t leave me.  To backpedal now would compromise her integrity.

    Is Agios Georgios really such a dangerous beauty? I’ve never seen a jellyfish in Greek waters, or a shark.  (I always ask about sharks.  Greeks swear they don’t exist in their boundaries.)  I have plenty of water and food with me…

    The speed boat ride to the beach would seem to be the most dangerous part of my excursion.

    I feel my inner Simone De Beauvoir rise and percolate.  Would we even be having this conversation if I were a man?

    Symi-Greece-Greek-Islands-Aegean-Sea-Cruise

    I tell Simone to simmer down.  The argument is a weak and unconvincing, and I’m talking to a woman.  It would just make her defensive, and rightly so.

    I could tell her about how I survived two war zones.  Maybe talk about the hand grenades and landmines in Bosnia and how I ran to a bunker (in platform heels, no less) every night as mortars and rockets pierced the sky above me during the month of Ramadan in the Middle East.

    I could tell her about nights spent in a tent during a freezing winter, or how apocalyptically orange a sand storm appears as it builds momentum and rushes across a lifeless desert.

    I could tell her what a safe place this beautiful beach, named after a swashbuckling saint,  would be for me.

    Symi-Greece-Greek-Islands-Sea-Swimmers

    According to Greek mythology, the Three Graces were born on Symi.  They ruled over social interactions, manners and culture.

    I stand there on the dock, contemplating my next move, when the will to power suddenly leaves me.  I thank the woman with the boat for her kind concern and find a seat for myself in one of the people-watching cafes in Symi’s breath-taking Italianate harbor (Hello! Beautiful!).  I spend the rest of the morning sipping a frappe and watching the boats come in, wondering how I got so lucky.

    Symi-Greece-Greek-Islands-Lazy-Days-Boat

    I’ve reached my limit on laptop time, so this is my last post from Greece.  I’m going to spend the next few weeks lolling about, far from the internets.  I’ll add a couple more island posts when I’m back in DC in September.

    Αντιο everyone.

    Enjoy the rest of your summer!

    © 2010 – 2011, Ithaka Bound. All rights reserved.

    Related posts:


  4. Two for Tilos

    July 12, 2010 by host

    Tilos-Greece-Greek-Islands-Blue-Church

    A mere 300 permanent residents.

    Beaches so remote, a torturously hot hike or boat ride is required to reach the most pristine.

    A studio to call my own,  just five paces from a tranquil bay where dolphins gather at dusk.

    The island of Tilos would appear to be my version of the Greek ideal.

    Tilos-Greece-Greek-Islands-Stone-Ruin-Tree

    Except….

    with so few greek residents, I meet more tourists than locals.  Unlike Nisyros — which gets excursion boats filled with volcano seekers from 11:00 am to 4:00 pm, leaving the island to natives outside of those hours — Tilos gets tourists who park themselves for weeks at a time.

    Also, everyone in Tilos is half of a couple, except for me. I feel my lack of coupledom acutely here, which hardly ever happens.  Tilos is definitely for two’s.

    Tilos-Greece-Greek-Islands-Old-Town-Clothes-line

    After I leave the island, I find out I missed out on a museum devoted to the mastodon –midget elephants that roamed Tilos and disappeared from the earth around 4600 BC.

    Unbelievable.

    How many chances will life grant me to see the bones of an extinct midget elephant?

    © 2010 – 2011, Ithaka Bound. All rights reserved.

    Related posts:


  5. Love in the Time of Caldera

    July 9, 2010 by host

    Nisyros-Greece-Volcano-Greek-Islands-Love-In-The-Time-Of-Caldera

    There is a speck near the center of the photo above : a couple embracing in the caldera of a volcano.

    Nisyros-Volcano-Greece-Greek-Islands-People-In-Caldera

    The island of Nisyros was formed when the Olympian Gods went to war against the Titans. Poseidon, god of the sea, set his sights on defeating the Titan Polybotes and pursued him as he fled across the Aegean.

    Poseidon caught up with Polybotes near Kos and broke off a piece of the island (near Cape Chelone) with his trident, hurling it at the giant.  This piece of land pinned Polybotes beneath it and sometimes he still hisses and groans and lets off steam, which explains all those sulphurous gasses and the volcano.

    Nisyros-Greece-Greek-Islands-Tower-Mill-House

    There is something about the ancient myths’ explanation of the world which I find very comforting. I could sleep like a baby on the bosom of the Avenger Zeus.

    Nisyros-Greece-Greek-Islands-Old-Town-White-Blue

    Nisyros’ beaches are black rock and sand, and the water looks like rich chocolate liqueur.

    Nisyros-Greece-Greek-Islands-Black-Rock-Beach

    Nisyros-Greece-Greek-Islands-Black-Sand-Beach

    When I drove to the caldera, a native New Yorker named Vasili waved me over with instructions on where to park  (“Park it over here, sweetheart, and show me that smile again.”) and doled out advice on how to avoid falling into the hissing holes.

    Nisyros-Greece-Greek-Islands-Town-Square-Old-Man

    If you visit, try to catch Vasili when he isn’t busy and share an ice tea with him.  He loves to chat and he’ll tell you all about his trip to Graceland and why the Colonel was responsible for Elvis’ death. (“I loved Elvis like a brother.”)

    Nisyros-Greece-Greek-Islands-Ruin-House

    I was in the entrails of Polybotes right before closing time.  All alone in the middle of the ancient volcano without another tourist in sight,  the notes of a mournful bouzouka began to reverberate around me, echoing for miles.

    Torn between remaining there enraptured for hours, or seeking out the source of those magical notes, I made my way slowly back up the white powder slopes to find the most unlikely bouzouka player of all:  a young man dressed in rastafarian colors, blond ringlets falling down his back. He gave me a sheepish grin.  How could someone so young elicit such mournful notes and understand what they mean?

    He understands me when I say “Beautiful”, and thanks me.

    I didn’t realize how much I loved taking photos of people in the caldera with my tilt-shift lens until I had already left Nisyros.  I considered going back for more but decided to leave it for next summer.  For the next 11 months at least, I want to hold on to my musical memory of the caldera.

    Nisyros-Greece-Greek-Islands-Sea-Mother-Son

    and then they saw my camera…

    Nisyros-Greece-Greek-Islands-Children

    © 2010 – 2011, Ithaka Bound. All rights reserved.

    Related posts:


Page 13 of 32« First...1112131415...2030...Last »