Octopus in Greece

Octopus hanging to dry in Greece

I used to feel bad seeing all the poor little octopuses drying on clothes lines in Greece. Then I learned that these super smart invertebrates have short, romantically tragic lives. Cause of death? Reproduction. They die shortly after mating. At least they go out with a bang and not a whimper.

You’ll see these little guys hanging all over Greece. Spear fisherman usually find them near the rocky bottoms of the shoreline. After tenderizing the flesh, they’re hung out to dry for a day or so before grilling.

Delicious.

© 2012, Ithaka Bound. All rights reserved. Text and images copyright protected.

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Athens Graffiti

Athens Graffiti Psycho Boys Ellas

Like most European capitals, Athens has a graffiti problem. I think things went into overdrive the last couple of years, what with the demonstrations and all.

In principle, I’m against graffiti when it involves the destruction of personal property and serves no purpose other than to glorify the ego of the artist — like tagging, for instance — but I understand the impulse behind it.

In practice, I’m a big fan of all the graffiti pictured in this post because it carries a message — political, social, or philosophical — and it was painted on the wall of a construction site, hence no property damage, and it took some real creative juices. Initially, I even liked the way the blue in the Psycho Boys tag played off the blue in the planter, but I learned from the comments that the tag is probably related to Greek far-right nationalist party, Golden Dawn. (I thought the symbol was a Celtic cross.) There is nothing more off-putting to me than a group devoted to hate, even when they use pretty blue colors.

Street art is appreciated. Especially Banksy. I wish Banksy would graffiti my whole house and the homes of everyone I know. If Banksy were a blanket, he’d keep me warm at night..

Athens Greece Political Graffiti Prime Minister Wanted

Athens Greece Political Economic Graffiti

Athens Greece Political Art Graffiti

Athens Greece Economic Graffiti. IMF

Athens Greece Graffiti I fear nothing

Athens Greece Graffiti God Bless the Irish Republic of Plaka

Long live the Celts

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Asbestos

Asbestos on trees in Greece

Fresh from the sea, I spread my towel out under the shade of a tamarisk tree — my favorite spot on any beach.

“Why are the bottoms of the trees always painted white?” I asked. “Is it to keep the insects away?”

“That’s not paint,” she said matter-of-factly. “That’s asbestos.”

“What?” I asked. Maybe I hadn’t heard correctly.

“Asbestos,” she repeated.

“Are you kidding?” asked my other friend.

“No,” she said. “Asbestos.”

Someone please tell me it’s not true.

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Always try the sea urchin

how to prepare sea urchin

I am photographing yet another blue doorway when I hear a male voice behind me say, “If you want to photograph a beautiful view, come this way.”

I turn around to see a friendly, wholesome, and trustworthy face smiling at me. He motions me into a house. I follow him through two rooms, we pass a petite blonde woman. “Hello,” she says shyly.

He takes me out to the terrace where there is indeed a beautiful view. I set up my tripod and snap away as the sun sets. The woman joins us on the terrace. There are introductions and small talk. Then I spot them: a bowl of sea urchin in the middle of an interrupted cleaning. I’ve never eaten sea urchin but I’ve heard they’re extremely flavorful.

I ask her how she cleans them. She shows me her raw red hands, and describes to me how she cuts around the mouth (Aristotle’s Lantern), discards the dark parts, and serves the roe on a half shell. She is gentle and bird-like, and brings out my protective instincts. I feel sorry for her raw red hands. “Would you like to try?” she asks me. “No!” I answer much too quickly, and to my horror.

I want to try the urchin, but I feel too sorry for her raw hands. She’s worked so hard for the urchin, she should gorge herself on them. In trying to be generous, I’ve denied her the same opportunity. A faux pas on my part, and I’m not sure how to fix it.

He is observant, out-going, and charming — the perfect couple.

“I know!” he says, making it all right again. “You will take our picture!”

And so I do.

How to eat sea urchin

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